St. Agnes

Wake up to the sound of the sea at the very edge of England

Measuring just a mile or so across, the rugged St. Agnes is the UK’s most south-westerly outpost, beyond which is three thousand miles of ocean and then North America.

Just 15 minutes by boat from the Scilly’s main island of St Mary’s, St. Agnes is astonishingly peaceful and an ideal destination for those looking to escape the stresses of everyday life. If you want to get away from it all, this is the place to go!

The island is a mix of rocky outcrops, a patchwork of flower fields and beautiful white sand beaches with clear waters perfect for kayaking, snorkelling and swimming. It is joined to a tiny island called Gugh by a stunning sandbar which is visible at low tide, either side of which are beautiful sandy bays ideal for swimming.

St. Agnes also has a great pub, cafés, restaurant, post office & general store as well as a lighthouse which stands at the island’s highest point and excellent homemade ice cream at Troytown Farm, made with milk from its own small dairy herd.

Sitting on St Agnes’s quiet quay is the most south westerly pub in Britain; a lovely old pub called the Turk’s Head. Just a minute’s walk from the quay and the first sight you see as you arrive at the island, the Turk’s Head must be a contender for the most scenic pub in the UK and is a favourite of visitors and locals alike.

We ate here every night whilst we were on the island and it’s a wonderful spot to wait for the boat back to St. Mary’s if you’re on a day trip. They also brew their very own Turk’s Ale, which I’m reliably informed by Rupert is worth a try!

Accommodation on St. Agnes consists of guest houses, a variety of self-catering cottages and a camp site – Troytown Farm. It was at this campsite that we were based during our trip to the islands.

As this was my first taste of camping, we opted for one of the pre-erected bell tents which was set on a beautifully isolated spot right on the water’s edge, with its own small sandy beach just a stone’s throw away.

Owned by the friendly Hicks family, if you let them know when you’re arriving, Sam will meet you off the boat and collect your luggage in a trailer. It is then an easy 15 minute walk from the quay to the campsite at the far end of the island. Or it would be if you didn’t stop off in the pub first!

The campsite is relatively small and we were almost the only ones on it, apart from a couple of other families. But at peak times, particularly the school summer holidays, I’m told it get gets a lot busier and booking is essential.

The facilities seemed fine with coin operated showers, a washing-up room and toilet block, but as this was my first time camping, I have nothing to compare it to. Phones and other small electric items can also be securely charged on site which was handy.

Pitched right next to the sea, the setting is absolutely stunning with incredible panoramic views across the Atlantic. We visited in April and were very fortunate with the weather which was lovely and sunny much of the time during the day. I wasn’t quite prepared for the cold nights though.  We had to go to sleep with all our clothes on, including shoes and hats as it was freezing which wasn’t much fun.

For the less hardy, Troytown also has three self-catering lets.

Our tent came fully equipped, including a camping stove & BBQ, which meant we could travel light -essential as we were flying in. There is a small village stores down the road for supplies and the on-site shop sells farm produce, but my best piece of advice would be to make sure you stock up on essentials on your arrival in St. Mary’s at the Co-Op.

Troytown also has its own tiny dairy farm and sells the most gorgeous ice cream made from their own cows in the on-site shop. The farm processes its own milk in a little dairy and supply pubs, cafés and shops on St Agnes and around Scilly.

Like elsewhere in the Scillies, we met people who return here regularly each year. It’s easy to see why as it’s a great spot for families where kids can run wild and explore in a safe, natural environment. It’s the stuff idyllic, childhood summer holidays are made of.

The marvellous beach at Gugh Island. You can walk across at low-tide

Getting There

By Air: Fly from Land’s End Airport, Cornwall Newquay Airport and Exeter International Airport. Since we visited, there is now also a new Isles of Scilly helicopter service available which started in May 2018.

By Sea: The Scillonian ferry sails from Penzance to St Mary’s from spring to late autumn, taking approximately two hours & forty minutes.

From St. Mary’s: There is a dedicated boat service for St. Agnes  from St Mary’s running daily services during the Spring, Summer and Autumn seasons, which takes around 15 minutes.